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Đường Chúng Ta Ăn Từ Đâu Ra

15/10/201700:00:00(Xem: 11814)
Tác giả: Nguyễn Viết Tân

Bài số 5243-19-31086-vb8101517
 

Tác giả là một huynh trưởng Viết Về Nước Mỹ từ năm đầu tiên, nhận giải bán kết - thường được gọi đùa là giải á hậu 2001. Từ nhiều năm qua, ông là thành viên ban tuyển chọn chung kết. Sách đã xuất bản: Chuyện Miền Thôn Dã.
 

Red-Sugar-Maples

Cây Sugar Maple, cây phong mùa thu lá đỏ.

 
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Hỏi 100 người thì 99 người sẽ nói là làm từ cây mía.

Không hẳn như vậy. Chất ngọt chúng ta tiêu thụ hàng ngày chỉ chừng 70% làm từ cây mía, còn do nhiều nguồn khác nữa.

Trước đây tôi có kể chuyện "Làm Giàu" khi nhà ông Hai Sáng có lò đường làm từ cây mía và có lẽ người Việt chúng ta cũng không lạ lùng gì về chất ngọt lấy từ loại cây này.

Hôm nay tôi xin kể về những cây khác đã cho chúng ta chất ngọt ngào, để làm nước soda, bánh kẹo và nấu chè.

Loài cây thứ hai cho chúng ta nhiều đường sau mía là củ cải đường.

Ở xứ nóng như Ấn Độ và Ba Tây họ trồng nhiều mía, sản xuất ra 1/2 lượng đường trên thế giới, còn những xứ khác ở Nam Mỹ, điển hình là Cuba; những nước Đông Nam Á như Nam Dương, Việt Nam, Kampuchia cũng trồng nhiều mía nhưng phương pháp trồng còn cổ điển; còn xứ ôn đới như Mỹ, Pháp, Đức thì xưa nay vẫn trồng củ cải đường mà mỗi củ nặng trên dưới 1kg.

Năm tôi học lớp nhì, cứ đến giờ "Nông Phố" là thầy giáo Thảo kể những phương pháp canh nông của những nước trên thế giới, cả lớp cứ há hốc miệng ra nghe.

Thầy nói có nước trồng được cây sữa, cứ đục thân cây thì sữa chảy ra, làm tôi tưởng tượng như mủ cao su màu trắng chảy vào tô vậy.

Có lúc tôi ngồi nghĩ giá ông trời cho phía trong cây mía là một bọc nước đường thì đỡ vất vả cho bọn con nít có hàm răng sún, hay mấy người già đã rụng hết răng.

Hồi đó tôi ở tuốt trong ruộng nên cũng chẳng được thấy cả cái xe ép nước mía mà sau này đâu đâu cũng có.

Lớn lên một chút tôi biết người Miên còn trèo lên cây thốt nốt, cắt đầu cuống hoa, hứng lấy nước để uống giải khát hoặc nấu cô đặc lại làm thành đường thốt nốt.

Mỗi cuống hoa có thể chảy ra 1 lít mỗi ngày. Nếu thu hoạch buổi sáng thì nấu làm đường, còn buổi chiều hay tối nó dễ bị lên men nên thường dùng như một loại thức uống có cồn.

Trong những vùng nhiều người Miên quần tụ lại thành sóc, thành phum bao giờ cũng có chùa, mà xung quanh thường trồng nhiều cây sao và cây thốt nốt. Ở Châu Đốc người ta trồng từng hàng thốt nốt trên những bờ ruộng và đó được kể là tài sản không nhỏ của gia đình, vì hàng năm nó sản xuất ra được rất nhiều đường. Đường thốt nốt có màu vàng ngà và ngọt dịu.

Người bạn của tôi ở SĐ4KQ kể lại là cứ thấy hàng cây thốt nốt dầy đặc là biết mình đã bay vào đất Miên rồi.

Trèo cây để khai thác đường thốt nốt dễ té chết như chơi, vì cây nào cho bông cho trái cũng cao từ 15m tới 30m.

Mùa thu hoạch đường từ tháng 1 kéo dài đến tháng 7 hàng năm.

Cây thốt nốt hạp với khí hậu nóng, nhiều ánh sáng nên các tỉnh giáp giới Kampuchia như Kiên Giang, An Giang, Châu Đốc có trồng nhiều.

Người ta thích trồng cây đực nhiều hơn cây cái, vì nó cho nhiều đường, nhưng cây cái có thể bán trái ăn dòn dòn như cùi dừa, và nhai sựt sựt như nhân trái dừa nước.

Cứ 4 lít nước lấy được từ cuống hoa thì nấu ra được 1kg đường, như vậy ta biết độ đường cũng kể là cao lắm.

Sở dĩ đường thốt nốt không được khai thác kiểu công nghiệp mà chỉ theo phong cách gia đình vì tiền mua củi để nấu cho thành đường cũng tốn nhiều lắm. Còn ở Mỹ họ nấu bằng gas trong nồi lớn nên maple syrup mới có giá hạ.

Trong khi đó cây sugar maple ở Canada và Hoa Kỳ thì cứ 40 galon nước sap mới nấu ra được 1 galon syrup, loại đặc như mật ong mà ta thường dùng để ăn với pancakes cho bữa điểm tâm.

Từ hồi người da trắng chưa đặt chân lên lục địa Mỹ Châu, người bản địa đã biết lấy sap cây maple làm đường.

Hiện nay Canada là nước sản xuất maple syrup nhiều nhất thế giới, gần 8 triệu galon; tiếp sau đó là nước Mỹ nhất là tiểu bang Vermont cho ra 1,320,000 galon mỗi năm.

Cờ Canada có hình lá phong và cây phong được 4 tiểu bang của Mỹ là New York, West Virginia, Wisconsin và Vermont nhận làm cây đại diện.

Nước Korea và Nhật cũng lấy sap từ cây phong nhưng họ dùng để uống chứ không nấu đặc lại.

Chúng ta để ý sẽ thấy nhiều loại syrup bầy trên kệ tại các siêu thị mà giá cả rất khác biệt:

-Loại giả làm bằng corn sugar và màu thì giá rẻ.

-Loại làm bằng nhựa cây maple 100% mới được dám nhãn là maple syrup.

Có 3 loại cây phong làm ra syrup là sugar maple, black và red maple.

Ở Mỹ thì có rất nhiều loại cây sẽ trút lá khi mùa thu tới. Chúng sẽ biến từ màu xanh, qua vàng rồi đỏ, sau đó rụng sạch để lại những cành khẳng khiu như những bộ xương khô mỗi khi đông về.

Đẹp nhất là loài cây phong như trong câu thơ:

-Rừng phong thu đã nhuộm màu quan san.

Tất cả chất bổ dưỡng sẽ được cây tồn trữ dưới dạng đường trong bộ rễ để đến cuối đông-đầu xuân sẽ đưa lên thân cây mà đâm chồi nẩy lộc.

Đây chính là thời điểm người ta khai thác sáp của cây phong.

Tuỳ theo kinh nghiệm và thời tiết ấm hay lạnh mà nhà nông cho khoan lỗ vào thân cây (thường là sâu 1 inch), rồi đóng vô đó 1 cái ống máng. Nước trong đó sẽ chảy ra tong tong như giọt mưa trên mái tranh vào 1 cái sô để dưới gốc.

Sau này người ta dùng ống cao su để nhựa phong chảy vô thùng. Có nhiều khu rừng rộng lớn thì gắn ống để chuyển thẳng về kho nấu syrup vừa vệ sinh vừa nhanh.

Bây giờ người ta còn dùng hệ thống rút chân không để hút nhựa nữa.

Cây phong chỉ nên khai thác nhựa khi ở độ tuổi 30 đến 100 năm.

Tùy theo gốc cây to hay nhỏ mà khoan 1 hoặc 3 lỗ. Mỗi cây chỉ nên lấy 10 galon/năm. Trung bình thì 1 cây tiết ra được 3 galon/ ngày (khoảng 12 lít), nên chừng ba bốn ngày là ta ngưng để cây đùn nhựa cứng mà vít mạch lại.

Nguồn đường cuối cùng mà tôi muốn đề cập tới là corn syrup.

Trước đây tôi cứ nghĩ là họ ép loại bắp trắng để lấy đường, thì dù nó có ngọt đến thế nào đi nữa cũng chẳng được bao nhiêu đường, sau này tìm hiểu tôi mới biết họ trộn bột bắp với chất hoá học gì đó, mà phản ứng sẽ biến đổi tinh bột thành đường HFCS. Bột bắp trộn dicarbonyl compounds sẽ thành đường High Fructose Corn Syrup.

Đường này rẻ hơn các loại đường khác rất nhiều.

Hiện nay nước ngọt, kẹo cao su và nhiều thực phẩm chúng ta ăn uống hàng ngày có rất nhiều đường này.

Có người nói HFCS sẽ gây ra bịnh béo phì, nhưng cũng chưa được giới khoa học xác nhận.

Còn một loại đường khác nữa mà càng ngày thế giới càng dùng nhiều hơn, gần 25% của tổng số các loại đường. Đó là đường hoá học hay còn gọi là “the artificial sweeteners aspartame and neotame.” Có người gọi với label NutraSweet, nhưng không thuộc chủ đề về đường tự nhiên của bài này.

Lời quê góp nhặt dông dài, nếu có sai sót xin lượng thứ.
Nguyễn Viết Tân

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(persona: AFP)

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